They say necessity is the mother of invention. It was indeed necessity that birthed the Lehnga. Before 1000 AD, the Sari was the national dress of choice for Indian women. Then, India faced invasions from maNy different directions and it became necessary for the women to have more of a covering than what the Sari provided. The Lehenga, a large piece of cloth worn around the waist as a skirt, provided a more appropriate dress when worn with a head covering, called Odhani, and bodice cloth, called Choli. Initially, the Lehnga was narrow, tied around the waist and held in place with a metal girdle. As popularity increased, lehenga choli went through many transitions to make it more convenient for the wearer. In wedding bridal lehenga are preferred by younger generation.

The loose ends of the cloth were stitched. Its narrow width was increased to make walking easier. The metal girdle was replaced with a piece of cloth, called Nepha, that had tape running through it, called Nara. The Lehnga reached its peak of development under the Mughal kings, becoming a counterpart of the rich dress styles of the Muslim royal women. Today, the ensemble still consists of the traditional long skirt, the Choli and the Dupatta (the Hindu name for the Orhini). The fabrics used are silk, brocade, linen or chiffon. The popularity of the Lehngha has steadily increased. In northern India, it has replaced the Saree as a wedding dress, being made in shades of red, orange or pink. The real beauty lies in the embroidery, or Zari. This art form is mostly passed on from father to son with utmost secrecy. First, the fabric is mounted on a wooden frame. Then, a pattern is traced on to the fabric with neel (chalk) powder. Finally, the actual embroidery is done, using many different types and colors of threads. The Lehnega may even be decorated with stones, pearls, gold and silver cords. The result is one very beautiful part of history which still lives on.