| Ambi A mango-shaped motif
- the paisley pattern (lit. 'rich')
Amli Needle work embroidery native to
Kashmir
Angarkha A long-sleeved, full-skirted
tunic for men, generally open at the chest and tied in front
with an inner flap
Ari Awl-like hooked needle, often used
for chain stitch embroidery
Badam A textile term for oval-shaped motifs
Badla Flattened gold or silver wire
Badla Mukaish Knots of badla sewn onto
cloth
Baluchar A type of brocaded silk sari
Bandgala Achkan and shervani (lit. 'closed
neck')
Bandhini The mode of tie-dyeing fabrics
to form patterns (also known as bandhej)
Bandi A short jacket or waistcoat
Batik A paste or wax resist dyeing technique
Bel A stylized creeper pattern
Buti A smaller version of a buta the term
is used also to denote stylized animal motifs printed in block
repeats
Calico A term used by early European traders
Cheent Spotted
Chikankari White embroidery, predominantly
floral patterns, executed on fine white cotton with untwisted
threads of white cotton or silk
Chiru Himalayan antelope
Choli A woman's blouse or bodice usually
tight-fitting
Chunari A tie-dyed dotted pattern, a veil
Chunnat Pleated or crimped gota ribbon
Churidar paijama Style of tight-fitting
paijama, rouched from the knee to the ankles (lit. the paijama
with bangles)
Dhoti An unstitched garment used to drape
the lower body, very much in use today
Dori A cord
Dupatta An unstitched length of material
for the upper body traditionally worn by both sexes, but now
mainly worn by women as part of a salwar kameez (paijama and
tunic) ensemble
Farshi A wide legged trailing paijama
Ganga Jamuna The juxtaposition of silver
and gold in a woven pattern, named after the confluence of
dark and light waters of the two sacred rivers
Ghaghra A gathered skirt usually very
flared
Ghera Circumference, fullness of a garment
Gheru Saffron, ochre
Ghundi A button made of silk or cotton,
sometimes covered with gold or silver wire, held together
with a loop
Gota A metallic ribbon in which badla
forms the weft and silk or cotton the wrap
Gota Moti A beaded cord covered with gota,
often used for finishing ghaghra and jama hems
Gota Patti Small leaf shapes made of gota
Gote The bottom part of a farshi paijama
which is made up of three sections, often richly embellished
Holi A lively and colourful festival celebrated
on the last day of the month of Phalgun to welcome the onset
of spring
Ikkat The name of the pattern created
by the tie-dyeing the weft and wrap threads before weaving
which is a specially of Gujarat Orissa and Andhra Pradesh
Izarband The decorative drawstring at
the waist of a lower garment, usually a ghaghra or a paijama
with ornamented tasselled ends
Jaal An all over pattern in a printed
or embroidered fabric
Jala A small wooden frame used by master
craftsmen, on which threads are tied to form a grid of the
wrap and weft outling the design of the weave
Jamakhana The storehouse for garments
in the Mughal and other royal courts
Jamavar The trade name for the woven or
embroidered Kashmir shawls
Jamdaani A weaving technique traditional
to the town of Tanda, Jais and Dacca used to produce figured
muslins
Jhoomar A jewelled hair ornament worn
on the side of the head
Jhumka A bell-shaped piece of jewellery
Jutis Slip on shoes, usually elaborated
embroidery and with unturned toes
Kalamkari Painted cloth (as a trade term
it referred to both painted and printed cloths)
Kali A gored panel
Kalioyndar Paijama A wide bottomed paijama
made up of several panels
Kameez A tunic
Kanchala - Kundal A type of earing
Kanchli A sleeveless bodice worn in Western
India
Kanni A complex weaving technique originating
in Kashmir (known in the West as the double twill-tapestry
technique)
Khadi Fabric made of handspun yarns, symbol
of India's fight for Independent
Kurta A loose, stitched garment worn by
men and women, most commonly described as a tunic (also known
as a kameez)
Kurti A short kurta usually worn by women
a type of grass fiber)
Lahariya A pattern in which diagonal wavy
stripes are formed by the fold-resist dyeing technique of
the same name
Lehnga A skirt
Libaas An ensemble or dress
Mashru A medium weight wrap faced satin
or twill fabric with silk wrap and cotton weft
Minakari Coloured enamel jewellery, borders
or butis woven with different coloured silk to give the appearance
of enamel
Mothra A criss-cross pattern obtained
through fold-resist dyeing in woven fabrics the term
Moti A bead or pearl
Mulmul Cotton, usually in reference to
Indian muslin, particularly the muslin woven in Bengal
Odhini A veil, usually 3m x 1m, worn by
women with a ghaghra, kurti and kanchli, it covers the head
and the right shoulder, is drawn across the body and either
tucked into the waistband or left hanging in front
Pagri The common term for a turban
Paijama Drawstring trousers worn by men
and women with many different styles
Paithani Cotton and silk sari produced
in Paithan
Pallav The decorative border at one or
both ends of a length of fabric usually of a sari, odhani
or patka
Pashmina The wool made from the fleece
of the underbelly of the rare Tibetan wild mountain goat
Patti A border or edging
Peshwaz A long high-waisted gown
Phulkari Folk embroidery typical of the
Punjab
Poncha The ankle opening of a paijama,
usually the salwar, which is often quilted or ornamented with
decorative stitching
Purdah The practice of sequestering women,
the flap of fabric in the angarkha that covers the chest,
the pieces of fabric used to make up the cups of a choli
Sari An unstitched length of fabric up
to 9 yds in length and 18 to 60 in width with a decorated
end panel draped in a wide variety of styles
Shatoosh The fleece of the tibetan chiru
antelope that is spun and woven into fine shawls
Shal A shawl
Salwar Paijama A baggy style of paijama
tapered at the ankle worn mainly in the Punjab, Afghanistan
and African garment
Shervani A formal knee-length coat fitted
to the waist
Sinjaf The facing inside the hem of a
garment
Sitara Tiny metal discs, often of gold
or silver with a tiny hole at the centre
Tanchoi Figured silk with multiple supplementary
weft threads, that create a heavy densly patterned fabric
Teej A festival celebrating conjugal love,
held in Northern and western India in The month of Shravan
Tikka
A forehead ornament also used to refer to a bindi
Tikki
Metal discs used in zardozi embroidery
Topi
A cap
Tussar
A type of wild silk made in Eastern and Central India from
hand spun yarns
Tikki / Tikki Embroidery Metal discs used
in zardozi embroidery
Vastra
Clothes
Zardozi Gold thread embroidery using metallic
elements and threads, sometimes mirrors, precious or semi
precious stones
Zari metal wrapped yarn used for
zardozi embroidery
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